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Understanding and setting your thread tension properly can mean the difference in high-quality good-looking embroidery and frustrating and ugly stitches. Think of thread tension as a game of tug-of-war between the bobbin thread and the upper threads. Two groups of kids on the playground are facing off, but instead of out pulling each other they are trying to keep a knot in the middle of the rope in the center. If Team Bobbin pulls really hard then Team Needle 1 has to pull harder to keep the knot in the center. On the other hand, if Team Bobbin is not pulling very hard then Team Needle 1 does not have to pull hard. The extremes are:
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Bobbin Tension:According to the Towa Bobbin gauge information, the tension on the bobbin should be set at 170gf. I have noticed that many embroidery machines come from the manufacturer set at 300gf. I have seen embroidery machines set at 125gf that sew fine and I have also seen machines set at 600gf that sew. The trick to setting your tension is set your bobbin once and use the H-Test to adjust your upper tension. As long as the upper tension is adjusted to your bobbin you should be able to make some stitches. Here are a few facts that I have found that when working with tension.
When I first started working on machines, I asked a fellow technician if they had any tips on tension. He said, “You have to do whatever it takes to make it sew.”
Notes on thread: Not all thread is created equal.Thread is measured in thread weight. I have copied and pasted the definition of thread weight below and trying to understand it makes my head hurt. Weights of thread: Fixed weight systems describe the length of thread needed to weigh a specific amount. In these systems, the higher the number, the finer the thread. Two systems are the Cotton count which is based on 840 hanks =1 lb and Thread weight based on 30 meters = 1 gram. So, cutting through all the hoorah here is the skinny on Thread Weight. Thread weight refers to the diameter of the thread, the higher the number the smaller in diameter the thread. The most common size thread for commercial embroidery is 40 weight thread. Most commercial embroidery machines use thread ranging from 65 weight thread which is small in diameter to 40wt, to 30wt, to 12wt which is progressively bigger in diameter. Here are some facts about thread and the effect on tension:
If you have white thread on your machine and it is dialed in perfectly, and you change it to black this could affect your tension. Black pulls through the machine easier than white. It may be the chemicals they use on white or the way it is processed. I use the black and white as an example, but this happens with almost any thread that you change out on the machine. It is usually not enough to worry about but if you change to another color and notice a tension difference then that may be your issue.
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Videos and information on Tensioning:Madeira USA - Adjusting Thread Tensions & Bobbin Tension
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Tension GuagesHere is information on tension gauges that you might find useful. There are mainly two sizes of bobbins used in most embroidery machines. Class L, and Class M (Jumbo). If you order the bobbin gauges make sure your order the proper one for your machine. Your tension gauge may be scaled in gf or N/m.
AllStitch Embroidery Supplies: What Size Bobbins Will Work In My Home Embroidery Machine? — There are 3 different sizes of machine embroidery bobbins that we sell, style L, M, and A (also know as Class 15). These do not stand for large and medium. The L & Class 15 embroidery bobbins are the smaller bobbins, they are about the size of a nickel. L fits most commercial embroidery machines and many home machines, A, or Class 15 fit many home machines only. Style M machine embroidery bobbins are about the size of a quarter. They are also sometimes called jumbo bobbins. Your embroidery machine must have been manufactured to take the M bobbin, or they will not fit. Click here for the home embroidery machine bobbin size chart (PDF download) |
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The following information is from Madeira USA |
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200-10 TAJIMA TENSION GAUGEFOR UPPER THREAD Tajima's pencil style tension gauge for setting proper top thread tensions. The Tajima top thread pencil style tension gauge has a hook on one side with a slide guide that is used to set top thread tension on commercial embroidery machines. The slide needle works with a spring to indicate if you need to tighten or loosen top thread tension.
For use with:
How to use:
DOCUMENTS & INFORMATIONAL SHEETS
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Click on the image to see Allstitch |
200-50 TOWA TENSION GAUGE LSTYLE FOR BOBBIN THREAD/CASE Towa® L Style bobbin gauge for setting proper tension.
This Towa® bobbin tension gauge helps set proper bobbin thread tensioning. The analog spring-loaded needle measures the tension on metal bobbin cases.
DOCUMENTS & INFORMATIONAL SHEETS |
Click on the image to see Allstitch |
200-60-L TOWA TENSION GAUGEWITH L STYLE INSERT This Towa® digital tension gauge is used to accurately set top and bottom thread tensions. The Towa® digital tension gauge is used to set both bobbin thread and top thread tensions. The digital feature allows you to achieve your machine’s ultimate tension setting easily and accurately. Comes with the L Style bobbin case insert. An M Style insert may be purchased separately (Item #200-M).
Obtaining your machine’s ideal thread tension will vary from machine to machine and person to person. As a guideline for starting: Set your bobbin case tension between 22gf and 25gf. Guideline Setting Numbers for Top Thread Tensions:
The numbers above are intended to be used as a guideline and may need to be adjusted up or down depending upon your specific machine. Be sure to set your gauge to the gf (gram force) setting by using the toggle button in the upper right corner of your gauge. |
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